Before I start peppering this blog with posts about the grandeur and beauty of NZ and making exhaustive use of the thesaurus to come up with new ways to say “gorgeous”, after a sleepless night spent scratching, I must vent about the one (and only one) complaint about this country so far–the ubiquitous sandflies on the West Coast of the S. Island. I may be overly susceptible to their unique agony (as evidenced by the 60 sandfly bites that covered my legs after a trip to Miami last year), but I’m finding them more troublesome than the mosquitos in SE Asia. Their small size make them difficult to spot, as do their lack of an identifying whine like mosquitos and they don’t limit their prowling hours to dusk. And sandflies is a bit of a misnomer, because their presence is not confined to beaches–they haunt lakes and parks and car pullouts. The welts from their bites increase in itchiness over several days and ankles are a preferred target. So, if you see me wearing my Tevas with long pink socks (channeling a Midwestern Comparative Lit professor), know that I haven’t (yet) thrown all fashion rules out the window — just that desperate times call for desperate measures. 
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She may not be the fanciest camper van in town, but she is cute and blue and our home for 33 nights. Meet Taranga, christened after an offshore island on the East Coast north of Auckland where we spent our first night. She is self-contained, meaning she is equipped with a toilet and a “shower” to allow us to “freedom camp”–a must. The toilet, however, is the portable type reminiscent of what a toddler trains on (but with a more complicated cleaning process) and the shower is a head that hangs off the back of the van. BUT, she is nimble on the road, can easily be parallel-parked and her diesel engine means great fuel economy. Her roof pops up to provide for a sleeping area which is Z’s bunk (arguably the best room in the house) and Jonathan and I convert Z’s bench into our bed each night. It’s become a game of “I Spy” to spot a smaller camper van on the road. Even the Dodge van from my childhood had a foot or so on Taranga. But, with each passing day we become more attached to our little Taranga, even if it wasn’t love at first sight.
The second flight was 10 hours long. Z slept half of it after commenting how comfy her “bed” was. I did not.








